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| Line
Railing Installation |
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| 1. |
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Check local
building codes before installation. |
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| 2. |
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Install
4 X 4 wood posts in the pre-determined locations,
cover the wood post with post sleeve and verify
spacing. Posts should be plumb. |
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| 3. |
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Identify
all hardware components: |
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(4) In-Line
Brackets (Post to Rail connections) |
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(8) #10
- 3/4" long Phillip’s head screws
(Bracket to Bottom rail only) |
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(17) #
10 - 1 3/8" long Phillip’s head
screws (Bracket to Top rail only and two top
rails to each other) |
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(17) #
10 - 2" long Phillip’s head screws
(Bracket to Post only) |
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(42) #
10 - 1 3/4" long Phillip’s head
screws (Balusters to Rails only) |
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(1) Phillip’s
head driver |
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| 4. |
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Measure
the distance between installed posts. Trim
the three rails to fit, two for the top rail
and one for the bottom rail. Cut should be
square to insure a good fit with the post.
Determine and mark the location of each baluster.
The baluster spacing should be no more than
4 1/2" on center. Building Codes requires
spacing between balusters less than 4 inches. |
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| 5. |
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Widen the
slot at the ends of the top and bottom rails
to accommodate the hanging brackets by using
a chisel or routing tool. The amount of material
to be removed is approximately 1/10"
wide by 1 1/2" long for each end of the
slots. Do not screw bracket into the slot
at this time. This bracket design is required
to accommodate strength criteria for building
codes. |
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| 6. |
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At each
baluster location, using 7/16" diameter
drill bit, drill holes approximately 1/2"
deep in the surface without the slot in the
top rail and in the slot for bottom rails.
This is used as a counter bored hole for the
cap screws that secure each baluster. |
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| 7. |
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In the
center of the 7/16" diameter hole, use
a 1/4" bit to drill holes though the
rails, top and bottom. |
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| 8. |
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For the
top rail only, mark hole locations at approximately
one-foot intervals to secure the two top rails
to each other and using 7/16" diameter
drill bit, drill holes approximately 1/2"
deep in the bottom side of the top rail only.
This is used as a counter bore hole for the
cap screws that will secure the two top rails
to each other. |
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| 9. |
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In the
center of the counter bore hole, use a 1/4"
diameter drill bit to drill holes though the
lower top rail. |
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| 10. |
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Trim all
balusters to the desired length. For a 36"
high railing with 2" spacing between
the bottom rail and the deck, the baluster
length would be approximately 30 3/4"
long. |
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| 11. |
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Using a
1/8" diameter drill bit, drill holes
that are 2" long, centered in each end
of each baluster. |
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| 12. |
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Using the
#10 - 1 3/4" long cap screws secure each
baluster to the top and bottom rails. |
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| 13. |
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Secure
the two top rails to each other using # 10
- 1 3/8" long cap screws. |
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| 14. |
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Using hanging
bracket as a template, mark the four hole
locations on top and bottom rails (widen slot
area) and pre-drill using a 1/8" diameter
drill bit. |
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| 15. |
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Attach
the brackets to the bottom rail using 4 #10
- 3/4" long screws, positioning the bracket
to attach to the post. |
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| 16. |
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Attach
the brackets to the top rail using 4 #10 -
1 3/8" long screws, positioning the bracket
to attach to the post. Do NOT Over Tighten
Screws. NOTE: If longer screws are used, the
screws may be exposed on the top surface of
the bottom rail. |
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| 17. |
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Center
the assembled section between the posts. Check
building code requirements for maximum spacing
between the walking surface and the bottom
rail, typically it is 2 - 4". Mark the
screw locations using the brackets as templates.
NOTE: Use wood spacers to obtain desired height
and stabilize the rail section. |
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| 18. |
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Drill holes
using a 1/8" drill bit at marked screw
locations. If needed, remove section for ease
of drilling and securing with screws. |
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| 19. |
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Attach
one end of bottom rail to the post with 4
- 2" long screws. Do NOT Over Tighten
Screws |
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| 20. |
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Level guardrail
and attach other end using 4 - 2" long
screws. |
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| 21. |
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Cut two
crush blocks to desired height, a tight fit
is desired. Place the crush blocks under the
bottom rail, spaced equidistant from the posts. |
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| 22. |
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Center
the top rail on the post. |
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| 23. |
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Attach
top rails to the post with 4 - 2" long
screws on each end of top rail. Do NOT Over
Tighten Screws |
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| 24. |
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Glue crush
blocks to bottom rail. |
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| 25. |
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Gap between
house - leave 1/2" space between the
house and deck board(when applied perpendicular
to the house). |
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| Stair
Railing Installation |
|
| 1. |
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Check local building
codes before installation. |
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|
| 2. |
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Install 4 X 4
wood posts in the pre-determined locations, cover
the wood post with post sleeve and verify spacing.
Posts should be plumb in both directions. |
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| 3. |
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Identify all
hardware components: |
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(4) Staircase
(hinged) Brackets (Post to Rail connections) |
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(9) #10 - 3/4"
long Phillip’s head screws (Bracket to Bottom
rail only) |
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(17) # 10 - 1
3/8" long Phillip’s head screws (Bracket
to Top rail only & attaching two top rails) |
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(17) # 10 - 2"
long Phillip’s head screws (Bracket to Post
only) |
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(42) # 10 - 1
3/4" long Phillip’s head screws (Balusters
to Rails only) |
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(1) Phillip’s
head driver |
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| 4. |
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Measure the distance
between installed posts. |
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| 5. |
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Lay bottom rail
on stairs. Mark angle on rail. |
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| 6. |
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Cut the bottom
rail to length. Make sure the cut is square and
check fit at both ends. |
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| 7. |
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Cut the two top
rails to length and check fits. The cuts should
be square to insure a good fit with the post. Determine
and mark the location of each baluster. Baluster
spacing should be no more than 4 1/2" on center.
Building Codes requires spacing between balusters
less than 4 inches. NOTE: The distance measured
for the baluster locations on the bottom of the
top rail are in the baluster slot while the same
distance is measured on the top of the bottom rail
without the slot. This ensures a vertical baluster
in each location. The drilled holes will be made
on the same angle as the end cut for the top and
bottom rails. |
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| 8. |
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Widen slot at
the ends of the top and bottom rails to accommodate
the hanging brackets by using a chisel or routing
tool. The amount of material to be removed is approximately
1/10" wide by 1 1/2" long for each end
of the slots. Do not screw bracket into the slot
at this time. This bracket design is required to
accommodate strength criteria for building codes. |
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| 9. |
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At each baluster
location, using 1/4" diameter drill bit, drill
clearance holes starting the hole in the slot of
the top rail and in the surface without a slot for
bottom rails. The holes are drilled at the same
angle as the end cut. The holes are vertical when
the guardrail is installed. |
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| 10. |
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Using a 7/16"
diameter drill bit, counter bore a 1/2" deep
in each 1/4" hole just drilled. These holes
are used as counter bored holes for cap screws.
Remember to follow the angle of the 1/4" hole.
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| 11. |
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For the top rail
only, mark hole locations at approximately one-foot
intervals to secure the two top rails to each other
and using 7/16" diameter drill bit, drill holes
that are perpendicular to the top rails approximately
1/2" deep in the surface with the slot in the
top rail only. This is used as a counter bore hole
for the cap screws that will secure the two top
rails to each other. |
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| 12. |
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In the center
of these counter bore holes, use a 1/4" diameter
drill bit to drill holes through the bottom top
rail. |
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| 13. |
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Trim all balusters
to the desired length at the proper angle for a
vertical baluster. For a 36" high railing with
2" spacing between the bottom rail and the
deck, the baluster length would be approximately
30 3/4" inches long after trimming (finish
length on a side). |
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| 14. |
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Using a 1/8"
diameter drill bit, drill holes that are 2"
long, centered in both ends of each baluster. |
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| 15. |
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Using the #10
- 1 3/4" long cap screws secure each baluster
to the top and bottom rails. |
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| 16. |
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Secure a baluster
in each location of the bottom rail. |
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| 17. |
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Secure the two
top rails to each other using # 10 - 1 3/8"
long cap screws. |
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| 18. |
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Using hinged
hanging bracket as a template, mark the four hole
locations on top and bottom rails (widen slot area)
and pre-drill using a 1/8" diameter drill bit.
Make sure the hinged bracket is 1/16" in from
the end of the rail. |
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| 19. |
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Attach the brackets
to the bottom rail using 4 #10 - 3/4" long
screws, positioning the other side of the bracket
towards the post. |
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| 20. |
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Attach the brackets
to the top rail using 4 #10 - 1 3/8" long screws.
Do NOT Over Tighten Screws. NOTE: If longer screws
are used, the screws may be exposed on the top surface
of the bottom rail. |
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| 21. |
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Center the assembled
section between the posts. Check building code requirements
for maximum spacing between the stair and the bottom
rail. Typically, a 6" sphere can not pass through
any openings. Mark the screw locations using the
brackets as templates. NOTE: Use temporary wood
spacers to obtain desired height and stabilize the
rail section. |
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| 22. |
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Drill holes using
a 1/8" diameter drill bit at marked screw locations.
If needed, remove section for ease of drilling and
then replace the section to secure with screws.
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| 23. |
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Attach a bottom
rail to the post with 4 - 2" long screws on
each end of guardrail. Do NOT Over Tighten Screws. |
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| 24. |
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Center the top
rail on the post and use the bracket as a template
to mark the hole locations. If needed after marking,
push section away from working area for ease of
drilling and then secure the brackets to the post.
Do NOT Over Tighten Screws. |
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| 25. |
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Place post caps
using adhesive on four corners. |
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